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Rust Repair

Tips for Installing Auto Body Replacement Panels

Tips for installing auto body repair panels
Repairing rust on your vehicle’s body, from rocker panels to wheel arches, can be a fairly straight forward job if you plan appropriately. You’ll obviously want high quality replacement panels to start with, but that aside, here are a few simple tips to help you plan for, and complete, a successful sheetmetal replacement job.

  1. Determine your ability to complete the job – It may seem obvious, but a lot of people buy rust replacement panels without thinking through the tools necessary to complete the job. Most repairs are going to involve an angle grinder with grinding and cutting discs and a welder (mig, tig, or stick), at a minimum. If you’re buying a slip-on panel to go over top of an existing panel, you will still need the grinding discs to help remove as much existing rust as possible prior to installing the new panel. Most slip-on panels can either be welded, riveted, or secured via an automotive adhesive.
  2. Be patient – Wait until you receive the new parts prior to tearing/cutting your vehicle apart! Everyone wants to get a jump-start on their project, but it’s best to have the new parts in hand to determine how much area they are going to cover, and to make sure that you ordered the correct parts. Delivery times can vary depending on the time of year (holidays/weekends) and weather conditions as well, and you don’t want your daily driver being out of commission any longer than necessary, so just be patient.
  3. Test fit the parts before cutting and installing – Test fitting the parts before cutting and attempting to install them is crucial to an accurate fit. In some cases you can clamp a replacement panel over top of an existing panel to see the area that it will cover. Compare the new parts to the existing panels to make sure there are no major differences. If you can clamp the new over the existing, this may also allow you to cut through both panels at once, providing an accurate and consistent butt joint to weld along.
  4. Only work on one section at a time – The more you cut out, the more the overall body alignment can skew. When your vehicle was originally assembled, it was held together at the factory with jigs that you don’t have in your garage. These jigs kept every panel in alignment. Without them, it’s best to work on one panel or section at a time. Also, if your vehicle was every wrecked and repaired, the original alignment of the body panels may be different now.
  5. Support the body to maintain proper alignment – The best way to ensure that your vehicle’s body does not twist when an existing panel is removed is to evenly support it from the frame. Start by having your vehicle on a solid surface, like a concrete slab, and then put jack stands under each corner of the frame. Once you ensure that the vehicle is level front-to-back and side-to-side it’s ready for you to start your work.
  6. Remember that it’s sheetmetal and not adamantium – Sheetmetal can be easily damaged, especially when being shipped. Small dings and scratches are considered normal when dealing with sheetmetal parts, so don’t get all worked up if you receive a panel that has some of these on it. Keep in mind the amount of cutting, welding, and body work that you’re going to do to that panel. When cutting, as the saying goes, measure twice and cut once. The last thing you want on a project like this is to cut a panel short and then have to patch the patch. When welding, space out your welds versus making one long, continuous weld in order to distribute the heat. Work in small sections, rotating around the panel. If you try to start on one end and weld across the entire panel you’re going to end up warping it and the body from the heat.

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Tech Articles Truck Talk

Common Issues With Ford F-150 Pickup Trucks

Common issues with Ford trucks

For more than 40 years, the Ford F-150 has been one of America’s most popular passenger vehicles. With its robust design and spacious interior, the Ford F-150 is a great vehicle for transportation and leisure. With proper maintenance, F-150 models generally give users years of reliable performance. Over the course of seven decades and more than 13 generations of trucks, Ford is the automotive choice for millions of drivers.

As popular as Ford trucks remain, each model has had its share of problems, though. Whether the issue is aesthetic or mechanical, it is crucial to understand these issues so that you can be better prepared for any common maintenance needs or know what to look for when considering the purchase of a used Ford F-150.

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Common Issues With 2015-2017 Ford F-150 Pickup Trucks

For the 2015-2017 Ford F-150, common problems range from interior mishaps to issues with functional components. 2015 Ford F-150 problems have largely centered on transmission issues that lead to rough shifting. Ford F-150 problems in 2016 models also include engine problems.

Ford truck transmission problems have frequently arisen in newer F-Series models. Ford F-150 problems in 2017 have prompted a large recall over a faulty transmission gear indicator.

While it is still early in the life of these newer trucks, here’s a rundown of some other common issues that owners have experienced so far.

1. Generation 13 MyFord Touch Complaints

The Ford F-Series has had several reported problems with its MyFord Touch feature. Though intended to enhance the technological options of the console, the feature has been found unreliable by many owners.

Consequently, vehicle buyers have threatened the automaker with a class-action lawsuit. The litigants claim the glitchy characteristics of MyFord Touch have disabled certain vital vehicle commands. For example, complaints have emerged that the prompts of the feature fail to enact the defroster or rear-view camera on F-150s. Other reported problems with the feature include diminished temperature control and navigation.

2. Frozen Handle Truck Recall

Frozen latch issue

One of the biggest problems with 2015-2017 F-Series trucks has been a frozen door handle latch issue. In subzero temperatures, the latch will often fail to engage with the door striker. Consequently, the door might fly open when the truck is in motion.

The door has also been known to freeze shut and lock the driver inside.

The frozen handle issue was the subject of a lawsuit that, while dismissed in court, led to the automaker’s recall of some 1.3 million trucks in October 2017. Ford issued a statement saying they would augment the trucks with water shields over the latches to remedy the issue. The recalled trucks were manufactured at the automaker’s Kentucky, Michigan and Missouri assembly plants.

3. Gearshift Recall

Ford truck transmission issue

A transmission issue with the 2017 Ford F-150 has led to a recall of 15,000 trucks. According to the automaker, the 10-speed gear in its 2017 trucks is intended to keep the vehicle in the same gear, regardless of the shift-lever position. Unfortunately, the feature has resulted in gearshifts that disengage from the transmission and render the vehicle incapable of shifting.

In the worst-case scenario, the shift lever might read the truck as parked while the transmission is still in motion.

4. Electronic Throttle Body Malfunction

Electronic throttle bodies have been a long-reported issue in Ford vehicles. In today’s Ford F-Series trucks, the electronic throttle body (ETB) is data-controlled. The ETB transmits sensory data to the throttle valve, which controls the quantity of air that passes to the engine. In recent model Ford F-150s, an error called “limp mode” sometimes occurs, where the ETB stops reading and the truck abruptly loses momentum.

Due to the high frequency of “limp mode” problems on 13th-generation F-Series models, replacement parts often have to be back-ordered. Consequently, Ford has told customers to hang tight for durations that could last weeks.

However, despite the fact that a failing ETB can resume functioning, experts say it is not worth the risk to drive a truck after an incident of “limp mode.” If you have a failed ETB, replace it immediately. If you must wait for parts, use a secondary vehicle or rental car in the meantime.

5. Seat Cooling Issue

Ford truck seat cooling issues

On recent F-Series models, drivers have raised complaints about the seat cooling function. In some trucks, the seat will cool briefly and then the function will fail. Some users have said the function will work on the base of the seat, but not along the back. According to reports, the hose that provides airflow to the seats often comes undone. The 2016 Platinum has been a frequent subject of this issue.
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Common Issues With 2009-2014 Ford F-150 Pickup Trucks

Common Ford truck problems in 2009-2014 F-Series pickup trucks have run the gamut from digital-system malfunctions to problems with the master cylinder, the ignition coil, the gaskets and various other components.

1. Generation 12 MyFord Touch Complaints

In Ford’s Generation 12 F-150s, complaints have arisen about the unreliability of MyFord Touch1 — a touchscreen feature in Generation 12 and 13 models. Since 2010, drivers have cited the feature as one of the main reasons for Ford’s declining ratings in user satisfaction.

Ford F Series touchscreen issue

Early users of the touch-screen feature reported it would abruptly stop working. Moreover, the commands were variably unresponsive and the system did not synchronize with smartphones. In 2014, Ford responded to these complaints with a redesigned user interface meant to enhance the performance of MyFord Touch. Despite these efforts, complaints about the system have continued with newer models in the F-150 series.

Recurrent complaints about MyFord Touch have described the following performance issues:

  • The screen fails to return once it goes into energy-saving mode.
  • The sync system freezes and remains inoperable once the driver has shut the truck off.
  • The system fails to recognize smartphones, despite the automaker’s efforts to remedy this issue.
  • The rear-view camera shuts off when the truck is in reverse.

The system has reportedly proven incompatible with portable MP3 players. Once frozen, MyFord Touch has even failed to reboot in trucks where someone has removed and reinstalled the battery.

MyFord Touch has also been reportedly difficult to use in colder weather. Moreover, users claim the system is difficult to update. In fact, most users have needed to visit the dealership for upgrades. Ever since Ford removed buttons from the interface, users have claimed commands are difficult to input when wearing gloves or with long fingers.

Before the rollout of MyFord Touch, Ford trucks ranked fifth among non-luxury vehicles in customer satisfaction. Within two years of the introduction of the touchscreen system, the automaker dropped to 23rd out of 32 brands. While this may not have been the only factor in the ranking drop, it definitely didn’t help the F-150’s case.

2. Passenger Side Head Gasket Leak

Many drivers of 2009-2014 Ford F-150s have reported that many trucks suffer from ill-assembled head gaskets, and oil is liable to leak from the passenger side. According to auto experts, the leaks are the result of overheating, overfilling and the disintegration of gasket coating. Leaks first become evident by the smell of burnt oil. Owners of the Ford F-150 have most often reported such leaks after driving the truck at least 160,000 miles.

While a new head gasket can be costly, some fix the problem by applying a JB Weld bond to the leaking area.

3. Engine Oil Pan Gasket Leak

F150 oil pan leak issue

An oil pan gasket leak can also occur when engine oil accumulates in the exhaust system of a Ford F-150. As with the head gasket leak, the telltale sign is when the smell of burning oil emits from the engine. A pan gasket is far more affordable to replace and is a relatively easy DIY task. According to reports from select owners of the F-150, they avoided the problem with a periodic tightening of the bolts around the pan gasket.

4. Rough-Running Engine

Generation 12 F-150s have been known to run rough when the engine is idling. The problem is typically the result of sticking exhaust gas recirculation sensors. The sensors stick due to the accumulation of carbon. Ford experts recommend drivers change the sensors every 100,000 miles. Once a truck has accumulated that many miles, the sensors start to wear down, which, in turn, can leave the engine unbalanced.

If the mass airflow (MAF) sensor becomes clogged, the cause will typically be a dirty hot wire. This problem will also cause the engine to run rough when idling. While it can help to clean the sensor, it is often better to buy a new one. Replacement valves are generally affordable and can help improve the engine running of an F-150.

If you do decide to try cleaning the MAF sensor, be sure to only use MAF sensor-specific cleaner. Many try to use throttle body cleaner on their MAF sensors and this often does more harm than good.

5. Ignition Coil Failure

Ignition coil failure in Generation 12 F-150s

When excessive gaps appear in the spark plugs, the ignition coils stop working. Without functioning ignition coils, the engine is liable to misfire. Sparkplug gaps are an inevitable result of wear. For improved longevity, lubricate the plugs with dielectric grease. This step will prevent wear of the rubber seal and the possibility of water damage.

6. Power Rear Sliding Window Defroster Failure

For trucks that have a power rear sliding window with integrated defroster, a common problem is a failure in the defroster’s electrical contact. There is a small tab located on the lower edge of the moving portion of the window and then another small contact tab on the lower portion of the fixed window pane. This contact fails, causing the defroster to stop working. If the truck also has heated sideview mirrors, the heat function will stop working as it is part of the rear window defroster circuit. Ford has not issued a recall against this defect, and the published fix is to replace the entire rear window assembly.

7. Transmission Shifting Problems

Ford issued a recall notice on the automatic transmission in the 2009-2012 F150s. Some transmissions in this year range reportedly started downshifting into second gear without warning. At any speed, but especially at highway, this could be dangerous. The fix is a simply flash update. This update has been known to cause the gear indicator numbers, located in the center gauge display, to disappear. While this doesn’t affect the vehicle’s performance, it’s annoying.

8. Coil Spring Breakage

This year range of F150 commonly experiences coil spring breakage around the 100k mile mark. The coil springs will crack, but not necessarily break into two pieces. Either way, this is a problem that will need to be fixed. The mechanics that we spoke with recommend replacing both coil springs once one is found broken.

9. 4WD Vacuum Actuator Failure

Ford uses vacuum actuators to engage and disengage the four wheel drive hubs in these pickups. This is what allows Ford to use a dash knob in place of the traditional floor shifter. These actuators are known to fail, though, which can result in excessive damage to a number of components in the four wheel drive setup. When the vehicle is in 2WD, the actuators hold vacuum pressure on the shafts to keep them from engaging. When the vehicle is in 4WD, the actuators release the vacuum pressure, and the shafts then engage. When the actuator seals start to fail, they lose pressure, which then allows the shafts to partially engage on their own. If you are driving and hear what sounds like gears grinding under the front of your truck, this is most likely what’s going on. The problem is that by the time you hear this noise the damage has already occurred. If you hear this noise while you’re driving, you can try shifting into 4WD and then out of 4WD, which should fully engage and then disengage the shafts. There’s a chance that one, or both, shafts may stick in the engaged position, though. Your best bet is to have the vehicle serviced as soon as possible in order to avoid further damage. If you’re lucky you may only have to replace the actuator(s), but most likely you’re looking at a much more extensive repair that will most likely cost $1.5-2k.

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Common Issues With 2004-2008 Ford F-150 Pickup Trucks

These years of Ford F-150 pickups had a number of reported issues, from spark plugs to airbags to window components. 2005 Ford F-150s also had engine problems in the form of ticking noises. Up through 2007, the F-150 also had some reported engine problems related to the cam phaser.

1. Spark Plugs Breaking Off

When it comes to Ford 4.6 spark plug problems, the years 2004 through 2008 were troublesome for the F-Series. Likewise, Ford 5.4 spark plug problems have been common on models from these years as well.

One of the most complicated Ford truck spark plug problems has been the issue of plugs that won’t come out intact. If you attempt to take out the spark plugs in the three-valve engine of a 2004-2008 F-150, the tips are liable to break off and leave the remainder lodged in the cylinder. The problem is partially due to the supposedly long service life of the plugs, which are supposed to last for 100,000 miles. The problem with that span is that it places the truck outside its normal warranty.

Two-pieced spark plug in Ford trucks

Ford developed a plug with a two-piece shell that can work well if treated every 30,000 miles. However, the plug will not generally last for the 100,000-mile intervals the automaker encourages. Somewhere inbetween those two mileage intervals, the plugs are liable to bond to the electrodes. Most problematically, a weld at the bottom of the socket holds the plug down as you try to pull it out, which is what causes the plug to break.

When the head of a spark plug breaks off, extracting the remainder can be a very difficult process. Even professional mechanics have trouble accomplishing the task. In 2004-2008 models F-150 spark plug problems are among the costliest of repair expenses associated with the F-Series.

2. Aluminum Hood Corrosion on Ford Hoods

During the mid-2000s, Ford received a slew of customer complaints about corroded auto parts on its new models. The problem centered on the hoods of the automaker’s 2000-2007 F-150s.

Corrosion has also been an issue for fuel tank straps in some trucks. On Heritage edition 2004 F-150s, corrosion of the fuel-tank straps led to a recall of the model. The problem was causing tanks to drop off, in addition to disconnections between the tank and the fuel line.

3. Airbag Deployment Issues

Ford F150 airbag issues

Another issue with mid-2000s F-150s concerned the abrupt, undesired deployment of the driver-side airbag. Drivers reported the issue on 2005-2006 models of the truck, and it eventually led to a recall that involved over 144,000 trucks. If you look to purchase a used 2005-2006 F-150, make sure that this recall was addressed.

4. Window Component Failure

Drivers of 2004 and 2005 F-150s reported a problem concerning windows. The issue involved the power regulators on door-side windows, which were failing and causing window panes to drop into the doors or to become stuck or make a grinding noise.

5. Loud Ticking/Knocking Noise From the Engine

Problems with the cam phaser have also been reported on these F-150s. Signs of this problem typically include sounds that resemble clicks and knocks coming from the engine. At the time the problem was being reported, Ford dealers allegedly claimed the sounds indicated nothing problematic about the engine. Consequently, drivers ignored the issue and engines failed as a result.

Some auto experts have advised F-150 drivers to steer clear of the Triton 5.4-liter V8 because of costly problems associated with the engine.
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Common Issues With 1997-2003 Ford F-Series Pickup Trucks

From 1997 through 2003, Ford pickup truck models were the subject of numerous complaints concerning age-old issues such as engine noise, head gasket leaks and window seal leaks. Most prominent, however, have been the controversies surrounding tank delamination and spark plug ejection.

1. Spark Plug Ejection

In 1997-2003 models of the Ford F-150, the most commonly reported problem with the truck was with ejecting spark plugs. Drivers have put forward several different theories regarding the cause of this problem. Some auto experts have claimed the plug design was flawed from the outset, claiming that the cylinder heads that consist of weak, four-thread aluminum supposedly compounded the problem.

Another theory asserts the spark plugs were too torqued and insufficiently tightened on the production line. As such, the sparks were prone to vibrate and erode the threads of the aluminum. Once worn, the aluminum would fail to hold the spark plugs in place.

The Ford pickups that are likeliest to blow spark plugs are the 2001-2004 F-150 models. Nonetheless, drivers have also reported the problem in 1997-2000 and 2005-2008 F-150s.

In response to the complaints, Ford initially asserted the issue was the result of users over-torquing replacement spark plugs. However, F-150 owners were mostly complaining about ejections of the original spark plugs that came with the vehicle.
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Common Issues With 1987-1996 Ford F-150 Pickup Trucks

Ford truck transmission problems were common on F-Series models of the early and mid-1990s. Likewise, F-150s from this period and even earlier have had issues with the alternator belt, ball joints and suspension.

1. Alternator Belt

On 1990 to 1994 model F-150s, the alternator belt has been the subject of numerous complaints. A telltale sign of trouble is when the engine makes chirping or squealing noises. The sounds are an indicator that the pulley for the air conditioner or the power-steering is askew.

2. Automatic Transmission

If the TR/MLP sensor is faulty, the transmission is liable to fall out of alignment. Consequently, the engine might flare as you shift the truck into fourth gear. Drivers have reported this problem most commonly in 1994-1995 model F-150s.

On 1990-1993 models, flare-up issues with the transmission have also been reported. However, the problem occurs when drivers shift the truck between the second and third gears. On these vehicles, Ford has attributed the issue to distorted valve plates.

3. Ball Joints

On 1990-1996 Ford F-150s, the ball joints have been particularly vulnerable to water exposure. If exposed, the ball joints are liable to expire prematurely. Consequently, you will need to change them out for new ones.

4. Hard Starting

1990-96 Ford truck starting issues

Drivers have reported complaints of hard-starting on 1990-1996 model F-150s. Ford attributed this issue to faulty harness wiring in the power control module. Symptoms of the problem include vehicular stalling, hesitation and failure to start.

On 1995 and 1996 Ford trucks, hard-starting has also been linked to a stuck idle air control valve. An engine that cranks and stalls or fails to start altogether indicates this problem.

5. Suspension Problems

Owners of 1991 to 1994 Ford trucks have reported problems with the front suspension system. The problem is due to weak leaf springs along the front of the vehicle. To fix the issue, get newer, stronger leaf springs.

If the truck has twin-axle suspension, cupping is liable to occur with the front tires. You can remedy the issue with new springs or added leaves. However, some cases require the change-out of additional replacement parts. In any case, you must get the suspension properly aligned.

6. Vehicle Noise

1990-96 Ford truck rear noise

Drivers have reported complaints of rear noise on 1990-1996 Ford trucks. The noise resembles a chattering sound and occurs during soft turns after driving the vehicle at high speeds. The problem is down to one of two causes — an insufficient friction modifier or a faulty Traction-Lok differential. If the rivets are loose on the frame, change out the rivets for bolts.

7. Recall History

In 1993, the Ford F-150 with Touch Drive was the subject of a recall. The issue involved the transfer case, which tended to fall out of high gear when the vehicle was coasting. Another issue from the same year involved Fords with dual fuel tanks, which were recalled due to system issues. The problem stemmed from the regulator, which could wear prematurely and lead to high-system fuel pressure.

1993 Ford F Series Touch Drive recall

On 1993 Ford F-150 (and F-250 and F-350) models with speed control systems, internal leaking was linked to the deactivation switch. Ford attributed instances of overheating to the problem, which could potentially cause fires. To remedy the problem, Ford issued a recall to install fused wiring harnesses on F-150/250/350/450 models.

In 1994, Ford received complaints about its airbag in F-150/250 models. The issue involved improper airbag deployment. According to some reports, the airbag and warning light would regularly malfunction. Alternately, the airbag would deploy if someone slammed the passenger door at the same time the driver started the ignition.
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Evolution of Ford Pickup Trucks(1948-1986)

Ford has developed its trucks over the last seven decades through with amazing advancements in engineering, technology and manufacturing. Between the late 1940s and mid-1980s, the automaker progressed through seven generations of the F-Series that resulted in the development of the Ford F-150 that we know today.

Here’s a quick look at these classic models.

1. 1948-1952

The Ford Motor Company unveiled its F-Series in January 1948. Billed as the automaker’s “Bonus Built Line,” models in the series ranged from half-ton pickups to the three-ton F-8.

In 1951, Ford made numerous revisions in the series, including altered cabs, fenders, grilles and hoods. Moreover, engineers enlarged the dashboard for improved viewing access. 1951 models also had foamier cabs with two-tone upholstery and assorted comfort features. The 1951 model was rated 100 horsepower.

Further alterations came on the 1952 model, which had a six-cylinder engine with 101 horsepower.

2. 1953-1956

In 1953, Ford unveiled its second generation of models in the F-Series. The trucks now had longer hoods and grille bars. Ford also redesigned the cabs with larger windows. The series was now billed as the “Economy Line Truck” and featured a new emblem that depicted a gear cog with a lightning bolt in the middle. The F-1 series was now suffixed with two extra digits. F-100s now offered automatic transmission.

In 1954, Ford replaced the flathead V-8 engine in its trucks with the overhead-valve V-8 the automaker had used in its cars for two years running. The engine, now called the “Y-Block,” generated 15 percent more horsepower than prior models. From this year forward, automatic transmission was extended to trucks in the F-250 and F-350 lines.

In 1955, Ford changed the upper bar of the grille from vertical to V-shaped. F-100s were also now equipped with power brakes. The following year, the automaker introduced wraparound windshields and redesigned dashboards to the F-Series.

3. 1957-1960

In 1957, Ford unveiled its third-generation F-Series, which featured a more modern look. Trucks in the series now included wider cabs and hoods with flush-mount fenders. Engines were now rated 139 horsepower.

In 1958, Ford redesigned its trucks to incorporate quad headlights. This move was accompanied by the introduction of the Super Duty model of trucks that featured engines with 534 cubic inches.

1959 changes to Ford truck bed

In 1959, the eight-foot bed started gaining on the six-and-a-half-foot bed in Ford trucks. Also, the Flareside bed was now being eclipsed by the smoother Styleside.

4. 1961-1966

In 1962, Ford redesigned its F-Series grilles with crossbars instead of the Ford nameplate.

In 1963, Ford produced F-100s with Flareside, Styleside and cab-integrated Styleside bed designs, the last of which promptly got discontinued.

Starting in 1964, the automaker designed F-Series trucks to accommodate air conditioners. The following year, they unveiled coil-spring front suspension. 1965 and 1966 models feature the front-fender TWIN I-Beam emblem.

5. 1967-1972

Ford restyled its trucks yet again in 1967, when the automaker unveiled its fifth generation of the F-Series. In 1968, a law passed that required automakers to incorporate side reflectors or side lights on all cars and trucks. Ford altered its hood emblems to accommodate side reflectors.

In 1968, Ford introduced engines of 360 and 390 cubic inches. They also made changes to F-Series armrests, door handles, heat controls and window levers. On the bottom bedside panels, Ford added marker reflectors to bring the trucks up to date with federal regulations.

In 1970, Ford also introduced the Ranger XLT. With its vinyl upholstery and convenient features, the vehicle marked the automaker’s drive toward luxury and comfort.

Over the next two years, the automaker altered its trim on the F-Series. Brighter, colorful upholstery was a hallmark of 1972 Ford models.

6. 1973-1979

1973 ushered in the sixth generation of the Ford F-Series. The grille on newer models contained dual metallic inserts split with an aluminum bar. Along the top of the grille, the name “FORD” was spelled out in letter-spaced upper-case.

In 1974, Ford gave its F-Series trucks added dimension in the cab. With 22 extra inches in length, the trucks could now feature side-facing jump seats.

In 1975, Ford added a new model to the F-Series — the F-150. Between the F-100 and F-250, the new model featured midway payload capacity.

As America celebrated its bicentennial, the Ford F-Series became the nation’s bestselling truck. The automaker’s success was due in large part to the popularity of the F-150. 1976 models featured square headlamp bezels. From this point onward, body panels used galvanized sheet metal to prevent rust.

In 1979, the automaker rolled out its famous “Built Ford Tough” advertising slogan. Newer models featured rectangular headlamps, while the grilles were available in chrome or black.

7. 1980-1986

The 1980s began with F-Series models that featured independent front suspension with Styleside and Flareside beds. In 1981, Ford introduced an optional downsized V-8 engine — 255 cubic inches — as part of a drive to boost fuel economy.

In 1982, the F-Series featured a blue oval at the heart of the grille, removing the “FORD” letters from the hood. During the early 1980s, the F-Series gained on the car as a popular passenger vehicle, which was due in part to regulations that effectively banished high-performance cars.

In 1984, Ford discontinued its F-100 line because it failed to meet newly revised emission standards. Longtime buyers of that vehicle switched over to the Ford F-150, which became the automaker’s leading full-sized truck.

In 1985, Ford unveiled its fuel-injected 5.0-liter engine as an option for F-Series models. As 1986 brought the seventh generation of the F-Series to a close, the F-150 remained the automaker’s bestselling pickup.

Common Restoration Items Needed for Classic Ford Pickup Trucks

Restoring a classic Ford truck

Classic F-Series models from the 1950s to 1970s can require minor to major overhauls to function as a daily driver. In general, a Ford truck restoration will require several of the following components:

  • New engine
  • Transmission
  • Brakes
  • Suspension
  • Upholstery
  • Interior parts
  • Quarter panels
  • Truck beds
  • Window seals
  • Hoods

To restore a classic Ford pickup truck, you will need to assess its current condition. Chances are, you’ll need to restore or change several parts to make the vehicle operable again, sometimes a majority of it will need to be reconstructed completely. Some of the first areas to inspect should include the carburetor, the radiator, the spark plugs and the ignition coil.

If you can get the truck to start, issues with the vehicle’s functionality will become readily apparent. Look for signs of leaking or mixed engine fluids. For example, if you see antifreeze in the oil, chances are there is a crack in the engine block. Other things to check include the brake pedals, clutch and gearshift.

Here’s an overview of what the restoration process may entail:

1. Sandblast the Body

The paint job on a long-dormant Ford is liable to be cracked and the body panels possibly rusted in spots. Before you can repaint the vehicle, go over the body panels with a sandblaster to prime the truck for a fresh paint job. The new paint job should be the final step in the restoration after you have restored all the engine parts. In the meantime, a sandblast will prevent the panels from re-rusting.

To prevent sand mist from harming other parts of the truck, remove or completely wrap the drive train and cover any engine parts that might otherwise be vulnerable.

2. Prepare the Engine Components and Other Structural Components

After you sandblast the truck, prepare the restoration of the engine and transmission. At a minimum you will need a rebuild kit. If the engine is stuck you may need a new block. For a classic Ford pickup, an inline six motor would be one of the more authentic options.

The cylinder walls on any old engine that has long sat dormant are liable to be worn down or pitted; therefore, you’ll probably need to reassemble the engine with new parts. You might need to have the motor bored and cleaned at an auto repair shop.

Check the shocks and leaf springs to see whether they are intact or need replacing.

Inspect the brakes. If nobody has driven the truck in 20 years or more, you are liable to find corrosion along the brake lines. Moreover, the drums and wheel cylinders are bound to be worn. Replace the wheel cylinders at a minimum and the entire brake system if necessary. Other parts you might need to replace could include the radiator, the gas tank and the motor mounts.

3. Paint Body and Reassemble

Paint and reassemble

With the original primer sanded off the vehicle’s body, powder coat the frame of the truck if possible. With the color of your choice, apply a new coat of paint to the entire vehicle. If you do not have tools and experience to do this well, have a professional do it. You will be glad you did.

Now that you have the paint job complete, reassemble the vehicle. Put the engine, drive shaft and transmission into place. Other parts to replace at this time would include the lights, windows, weatherstripping and tires. If necessary, reupholster the interior in whichever color or pattern you prefer. Add new carpeting and interior touches.

Trust Raybuck Auto Body Parts

At Raybuck Auto Body Parts, we carry Ford truck body panels and parts for each generation of the F-Series. Whether you wish to restore a classic 1948 truck or repair a more recent model, our catalog is the first place to look. We sell hundreds of parts for F-150, F-250 and F-350 models from each model year range in the history of the F-Series.

We specialize in aftermarket replacement parts that allow lovers of vintage F-Series models to restore their trucks to like-new condition. We also serve as an alternative to the OEM market for replacement parts on newer Ford trucks. Click over to our catalog to see our inventory.

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Tech Articles Truck Talk

How to Remove 2009-2014 Ford F-150 Truck Inner Door Panels

Steps to remove f150 inner door panel

There are different reasons for needing to remove the door panels in your 2009-2014 Ford F-150 — to replace your speakers, repair a broken door handle, replace a busted window, etc. You will only need a few common tools and a few minutes to remove your door panels and gain access to the inside of the door and all of the door mechanisms. While this isn’t a complicated job, it is important to follow the right steps to avoid breaking your inner door panels and the plastic mounting hooks.
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Quick Links:

Tools Needed to Remove Your Inner Door Panels:

These are the basic tools you will need to complete the project:

  • 6 mm socket
  • 8 mm socket
  • Ratchet or drill & adapter
  • Hooked or pronged tool for pulling
  • Small flathead screwdriver for prying plastic covers
  • A flashlight or floor light

Depending on what you will be doing once the door panel is off — for example, if you are replacing speakers or the handles — you might need other specific tools as well.

Steps to Remove Your F-150’s Inner Door Panel:

Follow these steps in the correct order to ensure your door panel is loose before attempting to lift it off to avoid damage. We suggest fully disconnecting all of the switch connectors at the end to completely remove the door panel. Leaving it hanging while you work on the door can damage the switches and wiring:

    1. Pry up the small rectangular cover panel in the bottom of the door pull to access the bolt.
    2. Remove the bolt using the 8 mm socket.
    3. Pull out the plastic cover behind the door handle using the hooked/pronged tool by pulling the handle out and inserting the hooked tool behind it. A hooked tool will keep you from scratching the door panel around the handle.

How to remove plastic cover behind door handle

  1. Remove the exposed bolt using the 8 mm socket.
  2. Remove the two bolts at the bottom of the door panel using the 6 mm socket.
  3. Lift the door panel up to disengage the tabs that hold it in place.
  4. Unplug the two connectors for the master window switch, the door lock switch and mirror switch.
  5. Remove the door release cable by squeezing the tabs on the blue plastic clip, passing it through the hole and disengaging the cable from the handle.

How to remove door release cable

You can now fully remove your door panel and set it aside. Re-install your 2009-2014 Ford F-150 door panel in the reverse order once you have completed your other repairs or speaker replacement.

Consider the following expert tips as you remove your Ford truck door panels:

  • Never force your panel: If you feel significant resistance, stop to verify that all bolts are removed and your plastic tabs aren’t stuck. Try gently wiggling or seesawing your door panel to work it loose.
  • Take care to use the right size socket on your bolts: The heads of these small bolts can easily be stripped, making it difficult to remove them or reinstall them afterward.
  • Test all switches and connections before fully reinstalling the door panel: If your connectors aren’t properly engaged before you reinstall the panel, you will have to remove it again to attach them properly.

Tips for Common Repairs:

Once your inner door panel is off, you have access to the window, lift mechanism, speaker and other parts of your door. Here are a few tips for common repairs:

Window glass:

  • When removing your window glass, make sure it is in the up position and secured in place — tape works well — so that you can unbolt the glass channel.
  • During the removal process, it may be necessary to lower and raise the window slightly by hand — this is easiest if you have someone helping you.
  • The bolts for the glass channel are located on red squares — for easy identification.
  • If you are replacing a broken window glass, make sure you remove all pieces from inside the door with a shop vacuum.

Speaker replacement:

  • Avoid touching the paper element during installation.
  • Hand-tighten all four speaker bolts before securing completely to ensure proper seating and positioning of the speaker in the door.

Door handle mechanisms:

  • When replacing your door handle, grease the mechanism to be certain it is moving freely.
  • Take care in tightening all bolts during installation to avoid over-torquing and cracking your door panel or other hardware.

If you have any questions, our team is always happy to help.

We invite you to share your tips on 2009-2014 Ford F-150 door panel removal in the comments below!

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Tech Articles Truck Talk

Replace Door Hinge Pins & Bushings On a 1988-2000 Chevrolet or GMC Truck/SUV

How to Replace Chevy/GM Door Hinge Pins

The large doors on GM full-size trucks and SUVs are heavy, and the hinges can eventually wear out. If you can’t close your 1988-2000 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban or Tahoe or GMC Sierra or Yukon doors without giving them a huge slam and notice that they hang low when open, it’s time to change your door hinges.

The culprit is usually the pins and bushings, which start to allow too much play in your hinges. Fortunately, changing your door hinges isn’t very complicated, though there are a few steps where a strong friend is a big help! A specific GM door spring tool exists that is designed to make GM door hinge spring replacement or reinstallation easier, but even if you don’t have this tool, you can still do the job at home – we’ll show you a trick!

Wondering how to fix the sagging doors on your Chevy truck, GMC pickup or SUV? Just follow the steps below!

Quick Links:

Tools Needed:

To change out your GM truck or SUV door hinge pins and bushings, you will need:

  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Hammer
  • Long extension or metal rod — for hammering on the pin
  • 9mm extension (or other similar-sized extension) that slides over the pin — for installing the retainer clips
  • Hydraulic jack
  • 2 x 4 scrap piece of wood (optional)
  • Penetrating oil
  • GM door spring tool OR a vice, zip-ties and a box cutter or sharp blade
  • Cardboard or carpet or plywood to protect your windshield
  • Safety glasses
  • An assistant

Parts Needed:

  • New door hinge pins
  • New bushings
  • New spring (optional)

Be sure to choose the door hinge pins and bushings that match your make, model and year of Chevrolet or GMC truck or SUV. Don’t forget to wear safety glasses — the retainer clips and springs can be difficult to work loose, and they can shoot up when they finally do.

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It is also a good idea to protect your windshield with a thick layer of carpeting or plywood. When you’re hammering on the top hinge pin, a swing and a miss can mean a cracked windshield.

Steps to Replace Your Door Hinge Pin, Bushings and Spring

Start by making sure you have enough room to open your truck doors fully, so you have easier access to the hinges. Then, follow these steps:

Remove the door spring, old hinge pins and bushings:

  1. Remove the retainer clip on the top of the top hinge pin with a screwdriver and pliers. Start to wiggle it loose with the tip of the screwdriver and then grab it and work it loose with the pliers.
  2. Remove the door spring behind the hinge — between the hinge and the door itself — by locating the end of the spring and inserting the screwdriver between it and the hinge. Pry, using the door as leverage, until the spring pops out.
  3. Spray penetrating oil on the top and bottom of the pins, at the bushings, to make it easier to hammer the pin out.
  4. Place your long extension on the top of the pin and carefully hammer down to dislodge the pin, taking care not to hit your windshield or another part of your vehicle.

Now, it’s time to grab your assistant!

  1. Remove the retainer clip on the bottom of the bottom hinge pin with a screwdriver and pliers. Start to wiggle it loose with the tip of the screwdriver and then grab it and work it loose with the pliers.
  2. Place your jack to hold up the end of the door to support the weight when the bottom pin comes out. Have your assistant hold the door so that it stays on the jack and doesn’t fall. Pro tip: You can use a 2 x 4 piece of wood to better distribute the door’s weight.
  3. Spray penetrating oil on the top and bottom of the pin, at the bushings, to make it easier to hammer the pin out.
  4. Carefully hammer up from the bottom to dislodge the pin, making sure your helper is holding the door firmly on the jack to support the weight. You may need to have your assistant gently wiggle the door if the pin is binding on the hinge. You can also grip the top of the pin with pliers once you start to work it loose and tap on your pliers with the hammer to fully dislodge and remove the pin. Pro tip: You can use a rag to protect the paint on your door by covering the area with it before hammering upward on the pin.
  5. Use your flathead screwdriver to pry the old bushings out.

Now replace the old hinge pins and bushings and put the door back together:

  1. Insert the new bushings, taking care to respect the different sizes and where they are located on each hinge. Pro tip: For the top hinge, the larger bushing goes in the bottom part of the hinge while the smaller bushing goes in the top part of the hinge. For the bottom hinge, the larger bushing goes in the top part of the hinge while the smaller bushing goes in the bottom part of the hinge. In both cases, the head of the hinge bolt goes at the larger of the two bushings.
  2. Gently hammer the four bushings into place. Remember that the bushings go in the vehicle part of the hinge, not the door part.
  3. With the weight of your door still on the jack, work with your assistant to align the hinges and start to slide the hinge pins into place through the bushings — bottom first, then top. Use a hammer to gently tap at first, then hammer more firmly at the end to fully engage the pins in the new bushings.
  4. Place your new retainer clips over the bushings and use your small socket or a small hollow piece of tube to hammer the retainer rings in place, ensuring they are fully seated to keep the pins from coming out.

Reinstalling the door spring with or without a GM door spring tool:

  1. If you have the specific GM door spring tool (spring compressor) for replacing the door springs, follow the instructions included with the tool.ORIf you DON’T have the GM spring tool, you can compress the spring in a vice and use plastic zip-ties to keep it compressed while you install it.Pro tip: Install your three zip-ties loosely before you compress the spring and tighten them once you have the spring in the vice.Carefully hold the spring by the side, not the ends, in case the zip-ties break. Make sure you wear eye protection as you push the compressed spring into place.Carefully cut two of the zip-ties. It can help to close the door slightly as you do this and also rotate the compressed spring to access the second zip-tie. It is difficult to cut the third zip-tie, but it will quickly break on its own as you open and close the door, popping the spring into place.

How to Reinstall a Door Spring

Repeat these steps for your other doors if those hinges need to be replaced as well. You will notice that your doors no longer sag and are easier to open and close.

If you have any questions, you can always contact our team here at Raybuck. We’re happy to give you additional tips and pointers to assist you in replacing the hinge pins on your older Chevrolet or GMC.

If you need replacement door hinge parts to help with your repair, check out our sister company, Henry’s Automotive Warehouse.

Have you replaced the door hinge pins, bushings and springs on your Chevy or GMC truck? Share any tips with us in the comments below!

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Truck Talk

Everything You Need to Know About EDP Coating for Body Repair Panels

Almost all of our replacement body panels for trucks, cars and SUVs come coated with a layer called EDP. This coating offers rust protection during transportation and until you install and paint the panels.

There are a few things you need to know about EDP coating to be sure you’re getting the best finish and long-term corrosion resistance for your repaired or restored vehicle.

What Is EDP?

Electro-Deposit Primer ChartEDP, or electro-deposit primer, is a protective coating that is applied to steel replacement automotive panels. This primer protects your panels during transport and storage and adds a layer of corrosion resistance after priming and painting. After fabrication and cleaning, your steel panels are then electrically charged before being dipped into a primer bath. The electric charge draws an even layer of primer to all surfaces where it then bonds to create an even, protective coating.

You don’t need to fully remove the EDP coating before installation and painting. For welding panels with EDP coating, you will want to sand the areas to be welded down to the bare metal in order to avoid contamination in your welds. If you’re using an adhesive to bond your EDP-coated panel to another panel, you’ll want to sand the area where the adhesive will go down to the bare metal to ensure the strongest bond possible. For top coating, you can simply scuff the surface to increase adhesion of your final primer and paint layers.
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Making the Most of Your New Repair Panel

Lower-quality replacement panels are often sold with little to no corrosion protection. Depending on how long these panels have been in storage before arriving at your location, they can require a significant amount of sanding, priming and prep work before you are even able to install them.

When you choose top quality replacement panels from Raybuck, you are getting high quality EDP-coated panels that save you time and help you make the most of your investment. Our panels are all made from heavy-gauge stamped steel and have been EDP coated for greater corrosion resistance both before and after installation. Follow these simple steps to get the best results from your EDP-coated replacement panels:

  • Scuff the coating: A quick scuff with sandpaper or a scuff pad on all surfaces to be painted is all you need (and obviously some type of surface cleaner) to ensure proper primer and paint adherence. Most people find it easiest to scuff the inside of the panels before installation and then do a quick sanding of the outside like you would for any paint prep once the parts are in place.
  • Install your parts: While EDP will burn off when welded, you’ll want to sand down areas to be welded first to avoid any contamination in your welds. If using an adhesive to secure your new panel, you will want to get a good metal-to-metal contact wherever the adhesive will be placed on both panels. You can leave the EDP on if you are going to be riveting for an extra layer of corrosion protection — such as for slip-on panels like rocker panels that are sometimes secured in this way.
  • Apply a primer and paint: EDP coatings should never be the final coating on a panel, you will want to use automotive primer and paint. Start by scuffing, applying a primer, sanding, then applying your final paint and clear coat layers. When EDP is scuffed, it provides an ideal surface for primer and paint adherence, so you don’t need to waste time trying to remove it completely.

Commonly Asked Questions

Here are a few common questions that we get about prepping, welding and painting over EDP coating:

1. Can I weld a panel that has an EDP coating on it?

Yes, but the areas to be welded should be sanded down to bare metal before making any welds to eliminate impurities and to get the strongest bond. Some welders may be hot enough to burn the coating off in the process, but best practices are to always sand to bare metal before welding.

2. Do I need to remove the EDP coating before painting the body panel?

No. Scuffing with sandpaper or a scuff pad is all that is required to prep the surface of your replacement panels for better primer/paint adherence. There is no need to remove the EDP coating completely. You should also clean the panel with wax and grease remover prior to priming.

3. What is the best paint to use over an EDP coating?

All automotive-grade paints will work with EDP-coated replacement panels. Sanding, priming and final spraying steps are the same as with any automotive painting process.

Trust Raybuck for All Your Rust Repair Panel Needs

For over a quarter of a century, Raybuck has been a leading provider of top-quality automotive rust repair panels. Save time and ensure a long-lasting job with our EDP-coated replacement panels for all of your sheet metal repairs. You can check our website for the panels you need for your vehicle’s year, make and model, and return your vehicle to like-new condition.

Start browsing now or contact our team for more information. We can answer any questions you have about our rust repair panels or the EDP coating process and help you find what you need to complete your rust repair or restoration project.