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Restoration

Ford Bronco Restoration Process and Tips

Ford Bronco Restoration Process & Tips

You and your classic Ford Bronco have been through it all, from off-roading to recent road trips. In the 1970s, the Ford Bronco was the best of its time with an iconic look sporting a no-roof feature. People loved the new combination of truck and car. Half a century later, your Bronco may need more than a quick oil change.

Having a classic SUV means you can always make it better and add loads of character to the original design or you can stick to the classic look. You can choose to restore and upgrade every single piece or select the specific things you want. From installing new seats to updating the suspension to installing a new drivetrain, the possibilities are endless and the value of your Bronco will continue to rise through the years.

In fact, the average value in 2017 for a classic Bronco in mint condition was about $47,000, which is up $23,400 from five years previous. Whether you’re looking to restore a vehicle to sell or you want to hold on to your classic, you can count on it being worth a pretty penny once you’re finished, both in monetary and sentimental value.

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Ford Bronco History

A Brief History of the Classic Ford Bronco

Introduced in 1966, the Ford Bronco was an instant best-seller and became a self-established category for the next 40 plus years. Today, it’s a reliable and nostalgic vintage SUV that you can continue to upgrade, modify and restore to your heart’s content.

1. First Generation: 1966-1977

Ford made 24,000 Broncos the first year, making them the original icon. They were the first compact SUV produced by Ford that could maneuver in tight spaces and handle off-roading. The vehicle had a simple dashboard design, three-speed transmission and it combined the best of both worlds — a car and truck. It had a starting price of around $2,000, which is just under $16,000 today when you factor in inflation.

With its off-road features and engines that were available with six or eight cylinders, drivers fell in love with the Bronco. Broncos offered three top versions — a convertible, hardtop or pickup truck. Set on huge tires, it could navigate through rough conditions and uneven terrain, and it cam with options for towing as well. The first generation of Ford Bronco is often considered the most coveted.

2. Second Generation: 1978-1979

The second generation of Ford Bronco was a redesign of the original with a single model — three doors, removable hardtop, V-8 engine and the tailgate that became a hallmark for the model. The tailgate also had a rear window that lowered into the door.

3. Third Generation: 1980-1986

Ford revised the front suspension, added the Ford logo and made the SUV more comfortable for riding on the road. Having a more ergonomic ride was a plus for many SUV lovers.

4. Fourth Generation: 1987-1991

This version of the Bronco shared common features of the F-Series pickups. Its 5.0-liter V-8 was a larger engine than previous Broncos had.

5. Fifth Generation: 1992-1996

The three-door, hardtop SUV emphasized passenger safety and featured a fixed roof. After 1996, Ford discontinued Broncos. However, in 2017, they confirmed they would be releasing a new model that will be released in 2020 — and there’s much anticipation from true Bronco enthusiasts!

Ford Bronco Restoration Process

The Process for Restoring a Ford Bronco

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A classic Bronco has large tires for off-roading excursions, no roof to let you feel like you’re outdoors and the iconic box figure of a Ford Bronco. Whether you’ve had your gem from the beginning or you bought one in recent years, restoration is in the books at some point. Restoration is necessary for most vehicles older than the 1980s, hitting right in the sweet spot for your classic.

But you can’t start just anywhere. Here’s a step-by-step Bronco restoration outline to help you along the way. A full restoration lies in your hands, and personal preference is the way to transform an original Bronco into a unique classic ride.

1. Inspect Your Vehicle

You can either turn to the professionals or conduct your own inspection to learn about your SUV’s condition. Now is the time to determine how extensive the restoration project will be, based on your model. Does it have a rusted out floor and a shot transmission or is there more extensive damage?

Some key areas to look at are your Bronco’s steering, brakes and transmission.

Classic Ford Broncos can have either manual or power steering – Power steering became an option in the 1973 Ford Bronco, so anything manufactured before that time will definitely have manual steering. We also recommend that you at least have disc brakes in the front for safety, so if the Bronco you’re restoring has drum brakes, plan on switching those out during the restoration process. Lastly, most stock transmissions in the Ford Broncos are three-speed – even if automatic, which is a rare find – and will only let you get up to around 55 miles per hours maximum, so you’ll want to consider upgrading your transmission to make it perform more like a modern vehicle when you hit the road.

The best place to begin is to think about your goals, whether you want to make vital repairs, modifications, upgrades or all three. You can also develop a timeline to help you forecast a potential budget.

Start by asking yourself several questions. For example, do you want to drive your Bronco throughout the intricate process, or does it have to stay in your garage until it’s 100 percent ready? Think about the condition of the vehicle. Will driving cause further damage? Gain a complete structural review and an idea of the parts you want and need. For example, are OEM parts a must-have or are the more affordable, and just as durable, aftermarket parts acceptable?

2. The Dirty Work Begins

Once you have devised a plan and worked out your budget, start the restoration process by disassembling your Bronco’s interior and body. Start by removing all interior components. Take note of worn or damaged parts that you will want to replace. When you remove each part from the SUV, sort it according to what makes sense. For instance, lay pieces out from front to back. Place all pieces aside for use or reference later. Be sure to label pieces as you remove them, including any related hardware, and make note of anything that will need to be discarded and replaced completely.

Once the interior is out, you can start taking the body components off. Depending on your restoration timeframe, you can start sending out any items that need to be restored, refinished, or re-chromed now. This is also the time to start purchasing new body panels.

It’s inevitable that you will find more items that need to be repaired or replaced than you originally thought, so don’t get depressed. This is normal for almost every restoration project!

3. The Suspension, Undercarriage and Chassis

Phase three involves the removal of every part attached to the frame. You want to separate the body of your vehicle from the frame so you can address the underside. If you will be replacing large sections of the floor, the rocker panels, or other structural areas of your Bronco, make sure to reinforce these areas or replace these panels prior to removing the body from the chassis or else the body may flex and twist upon removal, making re-assembly a nightmare. Starting with what you noticed during disassembly, cut out the bad parts – whether it’s damaged, rusted or corroded – and install new parts where necessary. Now is the perfect time to take care of welding and fabrication before prepping the undercarriage for paint or undercoating.

The next step is to clean the chassis and perform suspension and modification work. In the end, the SUV’s frame should be clean and painted or powder-coated. Pick an axle and suspension setup that fits your desired use. Are you one for getting down and dirty with mudding or is your Bronco going to be for on-road travels?

This is also the time to make any drivetrain changes. You can either rebuild and re-install the existing drivetrain, or you can install new portions of it. If installing a new engine, transmission or axles, you may need to weld in new mounts and supports. When changing out any of the drivetrain or suspension pieces keep in mind that you may have to modify the body panels, such as inner fenders, around that area to allow for proper clearance. When installing new drivetrain and suspension pieces you’ll also want to think about how the exhaust will be routed so as to leave adequate room for it.

Once the suspension and drivetrain are in place, your rolling chassis is ready for paint and then the body.

Tip: Don’t forget to install new body mount bushings!

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4. Plumbing

Once the body is back on the chassis, it’s time to lay out new brake lines, fuel lines, hoses, wiring and exhaust. Take your time with this step as all of these items are crucial to having a reliable vehicle. Taking the time to neatly route and label all electrical wires will not only make your vehicle look like it was professionally done, but will eliminate any headaches later down the road if a problem arises. Document all routes that you just laid out so that you can easily follow them once the vehicle is painted.

Tip: Make sure to use rubber grommets any time a wire, hose, or line passes through a metal hole.

5. Spend Time on the Body and Painting

We suggest assembling the body and frame during the body and paint procedure. Depending on the condition of your Bronco, strip down your Bronco and align door hinges, door gaps and panel fitments. Block and prime/seal your vehicle before you begin the paintwork to make sure the body is perfect and ready to go.

Then paint the jambs, ensuring the doors are aligned, and apply a color basecoat on the rest of the body, ensuring no overspray occurs. Once the base color dries, wet sand it and then spray on several thin layers of clear coat to give it a mirror finish shine. Wait until the clear cures before you wet sand it to remove blemishes and orange-peel effects. The final step is to buff and polish your Ford Bronco.

If you don’t have the tools or expertise to paint your Bronco, hire a professional to do it. There’s nothing worse than a great classic SUV finished off with a sub-par paint job. Make the most of your investment in your Bronco’s restoration and do the paint job right!

Tip: If your Bronco has a tire carrier rack, paint it separately for a better coating and a cleaner finish.

6. The Interior and Final Body Assembly

After the painting process of your Ford Bronco restoration project, you can install sound deadener material (spray-on or stick on pads) to the floor, roof, inner door cavities and firewall to help reduce road noise and to remove that tinny sound that most older vehicles had. This is also the time to install the wiring and assemble the interior and upholster your seats. You can lay carpet, install the dash and inner door panels and decide whether you want a soft top or headliner. When it comes to your seats, you can keep the retro look with stock buckets or choose aftermarket options like front bucket seats or a flip and fold in the back.

Now is when you want to replace all-weather stripping and install exterior trim, badges and moldings. Make sure to finalize all the electrical work like replacing bulbs and firing up your engine to make sure everything is operating properly. Assemble other components like hoses, ground straps and cables and take other steps like installing new lenses and bumpers.

You can also customize your rims and tires to change the entire look of your ride. It’s one of the easiest ways to personalize your SUV.

7. Putting Your Ford Bronco to the Test

You’ve completed all the hard work from beginning to end. It may have taken several months or even a few years, but it nonetheless feels fantastic to complete such a project. Time to see if it’s ready to drive. Once it passes the final inspection and looks just the way you want, your dream SUV is ready for the road.

Restoration requires time, patience, skill, an excellent workshop and of course love and passion for the project.

Tips for Ford Bronco Restoration

Tips for Restoring Your Ford Bronco

Early Bronco restoration tips are simple to follow and vital if you want a restored SUV that meets or surpasses your expectations. We know you’re looking forward to getting back out on the road for a joy ride or taking your Bronco out for a mud session, but consider the following tips for a clean restoration project:

  • Always start with the end in mind. Ask yourself a series of questions to understand what you want to get out of your restoration project. For example, how do you want to use your Bronco and what parts of the project mean the most to you?
  • Decide if you want to complete a full restoration or if you want a “RestoMod.” A full restoration means you stick close to the style of your original Bronco. A “RestoMod” is part restoration and part modification — a mix of classic features and modern technology to give off the original style with contemporary comfort and performance. It often looks like the original but performs like a brand new Bronco.
  • Think about your budget. How much money are you willing to spend? Decide your finances before jumping into the process so you don’t blow your budget right at the beginning. Always keep in mind that most projects go over budget as you run into problems that you weren’t aware of up front. You can also consider what the most important portion to restore is and if you can complete the project in phases. Does your Bronco need power steering installed? Or an overdrive transmission to get it up to speed?
  • Make a schedule. Depending on when you want to start driving your new and improved ride, think about how long the project will take and compare it to when you want to get back on the road.
  • Work with the right space, equipment and tools. First, you need a space big enough for your project whether it’s your garage, barn or another area. From there, you will need to invest in the proper tools and equipment ranging from simple solutions like welding equipment and socket wrenches to more complex items such as transmission stands and auto jigs.
  • Do you go for originality or personality? You have the option to restore your Ford Bronco to its original condition or add your own flair into the final result. But keep in mind, no matter whether you plan on selling or not, make modifications to your liking, not the next onlooker.
  • How to choose the ideal Bronco. This is one of the toughest questions. If you still have the SUV you bought decades before, you’re good to go. But if you’re looking to restore an SUV but don’t have one yet, it’s a bit trickier. The best advice is to complete thorough research and inspect a classic Bronco keeping in mind the repair costs. Ideally, look for one that has been stored in a barn or garage and has been driven in the past few years. Be sure to check all of the VINs and make sure that they match – This includes VINs in two spots on the frame, one in the glovebox and the one on the title, with the frame having the dominant VIN.
  • Contact the professionals at Raybuck Auto Body Parts when you need support. If you’re unsure of what you’re doing or the parts you need, you could spend your time and money on all the wrong parts. Raybuck professionals can help you budget and find the body parts for a full or partial restoration, and even assist you in finding the right pieces to enhance your Bronco.

Raybuck Has All the Body Panels You Need

Raybuck Auto Body Parts is the place to go for auto body replacement panels. Our panels are made from heavy gauge stamped steel that meets or exceeds the thickness of the original parts on your SUV. For perfect fitment, all of our panels are made using a 3D scan of an original part. Not only will our panels give you a fresh look, but also a sturdier and more dependable ride to last you long-term through your rough off-roading and other adventures.

Browse our inventory of Bronco restoration parts and panels and get the pieces you need to complete the ultimate restoration project. Our experts are here to support you if you need help figuring out the parts you need. Our products range from body and chassis products like doors, fenders, hoods and wheel arches to fuel tanks, interior components and weather stripping for your Bronco or Bronco II.

Contact us online or give us a call to speak with a Raybuck representative or for more information about our inventory.

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Categories
Rust Repair Tech Articles Truck Talk

Worst Salt Corrosion & Auto Rust by State

Snowy and icy roads create some of the worst road conditions for car and truck owners — and when salt gets dispensed onto the highway, it can cause rust on certain areas of vehicles.

The purpose of using salt on roads during the winter is to lower the freezing point of snow and ice. When states add salt to the roadway, the freezing point drops from 32 degrees to 20 degrees or lower. Salt also helps drivers to gain more traction during severe weather situations.

Although salt increases the friction between your truck’s tires and the road when inclement weather hits, it is a cause for concern because it can promote rust on your truck or car. Salt buildup can occur on just about any area of your truck, but it is especially common on areas affected by the spray from road. This includes fenders, wheel wells, fuel tanks, rocker panels and more.

Worst States for Salt & Rust On Vehicles - Micrographic

Worst States for Road Salt

The worst states for rust come from an area known as the “Salt Belt”. State government trucks dump large amounts of the chemical compound onto roads in certain areas of the United States, causing cars to experience more destruction and rapid rusting compared to other parts of the region. States in the “Salt Belt” are:

  • Alaska
  • Connecticut
  • Maryland
  • Massachusetts
  • Delaware
  • New Hampshire
  • New Jersey
  • Ohio
  • Pennsylvania
  • Rhode Island
  • Washington D.C.
  • Illinois
  • Indiana
  • Iowa
  • Missouri
  • Maine
  • New York
  • Michigan
  • Minnesota
  • West Virginia
  • Vermont
  • Virginia
  • Wisconsin

The worst states for rust are primarily located in the Northeastern portion of the U.S. As you can imagine, the “Salt Belt” also includes some of the worst states for car rust.

Parts of Your Truck Typically Damaged by Salt and Rust

The average truck suffers from salt damage in more places than one. As a key factor in preventing rust from overtaking your vehicle, it’s a good starting point to know which areas of your truck are more prone to corrosion. Take a look at the parts of your truck that may rust the most:

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How to Protect Your Truck from Rust

While you may not be 100% guaranteed to avoid truck rust in the winter, you can take several steps to protect your vehicle from severe damage. Every truck in the Salt Belt region suffers from roadside salt, but here’s how to prevent rust on your truck in the winter:

  • Clean the exterior and undercarriage of your truck: This should be part of regular maintenance, especially during the winter months with heavy snow and ice.
  • Touch up damaged paint spots: Make sure to use a matching color.
  • Apply wax: Apply it to both the cavity and exterior of your truck along with an undercoating.
  • Use an anti-rust spray: This should be used after you perform each sealant job.
  • Spray a coat of linseed oil: This will reduce the risk of your truck rusting for up to a year.

Rely on Raybuck Auto Body Parts to Help You Defeat the “Salt Belt”

If your truck experiences regular salt and rust damage, Raybuck can help you find replacement panels and parts to restore your vehicle and extend its life. Whether it’s your fenders, rocker panels, cab corners, fuel tank or something else, we can help you repair the necessary components of your truck that suffered from salt corrosion and rust.

Raybuck has a large inventory of high-quality body panels to keep your truck at its best. Contact us today or check out our inventory of body parts and panels to help repair and protect your truck from rust.

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Categories
Tech Articles

Automotive Battery Dimensions

Maximum Outside Dimension Chart for Automotive Batteries

Replacing the battery in most newer passenger vehicles is straight forward. Most people take their vehicle (or battery) to a local automotive store where the staff looks up the year, make and model and then provides a replacement battery that meets the same CA (cranking amps), CCA (cold cranking amps), dimensions and terminal layout as the old battery. Usually the only two deviations from the battery that was in the vehicle are for higher CCA (usually in colder climates) and/or a longer warranty period.

There are times when original battery specifications may not be available for reference, though. Maybe you’re working on an antique or classic, or are converting it from 6v to 12v. Or, maybe you are building a street rod, rock crawler, car hauler, etc and only know what amperage draw you need and what size compartment the battery needs to fit into. We put together the below chart for these scenarios to help you find a battery that will fit your application. All dimensions listed are maximum outside dimensions to the widest point, including terminal posts and flanges (based on data from the BCI Battery Replacement Data Book). Any hold-down flanges at the bottom of a battery are not included in these measurements.

We’ve included as many dimensions as we’ve been able to find, but if you can help fill in any of the gaps please email us at service@raybuck.com.

Categories
Tech Articles Truck Talk

What to Look for When Buying a 1996-2006 GM Pickup

The 1996-2006 generation of GM full-size pickups is among the most popular and trusted trucks on the road. Sold as the Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra, these trucks are available in a number of cab and box configurations, with different lengths, engine and transmission options depending on the model.

If you are looking to purchase a used GM pickup – especially one with high mileage – there are a few points you should consider and several areas to look at to make sure you’re getting a quality truck that will last for many more miles.

Avoid Known Issues with Chevy/GMC Trucks

While the GM trucks are generally regarded as durable and reliable, there are a few problem areas you’ll want to watch out for. This goes for any truck you’re buying since they often spend their lives hauling, towing and pushing heavy loads, which tends to wear many mechanical components out. Consider these common Chevy and GMC truck issues before buying:

1. Hub and Bearing Issues

Even the best hubs and bearings will wear out. In the case of the GM pickups, the front wheel hubs often start to show play. You will detect this as a vibration or shudder in the front end of the truck that gets worse over time.

An easy diagnosis is to lift the front end of the truck up and see if the wheels move from side to side when you knock firmly or apply pressure to the inside of the wheel — any side-to-side movement of the wheels means the hubs and bearings likely need to be replaced. It is unsafe to drive for long with worn hubs and bearings, as failure at high speed can make it very difficult to control the truck and could result in a fatal accident.

2. Tie Rod Ends

Your front tie rod ends come in two sets of pairs: an inner and outer rod at each front wheel. These rods connect your wheels to the steering rack. Any play in the tie rod ends will affect the accuracy and responsiveness of your steering and can also put your wheels out of alignment.

It is important to replace a truck’s tie rod ends when you start seeing signs of play. Failure at speed can mean a loss of steering control and could cause an accident. This is fairly easy to check with the front end of the truck up. When you pull on the tie rod ends, there shouldn’t be any movement between the rod and the boot.

3. Axle Seals

An axle seal fluid leak can be a big hassle if it gets bad enough. These small seals are designed to keep the fluid in the differential housing. Over time, these rubber seals get hard and brittle and can crack, allowing fluid to escape. A small leak won’t cause differential problems, but any leak will eventually get worse.

Take the time to inspect the axle seals of any used truck you plan to buy and make note of any leaks at the axle stubs or differential because the seals will need to be replaced if they are leaking. Replacement of the seals themselves is not complicated, but it typically first involves dropping the differential, which is can be a lot of work.

4. Water Pumps and Thermostat Housings

There are many potential locations for coolant to leak from an engine, but with the GMC and Chevy pickups, the water pump and thermostat/thermostat assembly housing are common sources of leaks. The thin gaskets wear out over time and let coolant seep out. If a gasket cracks all the way through, the coolant leak can quickly become severe, disabling your truck. If an engine overheats, damage can quickly be done to key components.

Wipe around the water pump and thermostat areas with a rag and run the truck for a few minutes to see if you can locate any coolant leaks before buying. Depending on the engine you have, you may not have easy access to check for leaks, so use a flashlight to check for wet spots.

5. U-Joints

RWD and 4×4 vehicles all use a driveshaft to deliver power from the transmission to the rear axle. A pair of U-joints at the front of the driveshaft and another at the rear account for the difference in height and alignment of the shaft as the suspension travels up and down.

The original equipment U-joints in the Silverado and Sierra pickups are prone to wear around the 120,000-mile mark – or sooner depending on usage – and should be checked. If you’re considering buying a used high mileage truck, try to get it up on a hoist and check for play in the U-joints. Another sign that a truck’s u joints may need to be replaced is if you hear a clunk when shifting from drive to reverse or a squeaking noise when you start to move.

An experienced mechanic can replace these joints quickly, but a beginner may find it challenging on their own.

6. Calipers

While brake pads are normal wear parts that need to be replaced on any vehicle, the 1999-2006 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra are known to have problems with their aluminum brake calipers. These lightweight calipers are used front and rear and were made from aluminum to save weight. They tend to bind and hang up causing the pads to wear unevenly — especially at the rear.

Pull off the wheels and check the brake pads if possible before buying a used pickup to see if you’ll need to change the calipers or not. A lack of braking power for any reason can lead to reduced stopping power, so always pay close attention to brakes when buying a used truck.

If you aren’t able to take the wheels off before buying a truck, check when you get it home. It is often it is a good idea to plan on doing a brake job on any used vehicle that you purchase and you can use this as an opportunity to check conditions of the calipers as well.

Being Prepared Can Help You Make the Best Selection

This used Silverado and Sierra pickup buying guide arms you with tips to avoid some of the most common GM pickup issues. Watch for these points and overall condition of the 1999-2006 series full-size GM trucks so that you can be prepared for any potential issues that your new truck may have before buying it.

All trucks will need some repairs and maintenance as they get up there in miles, but knowing what to look for can help you be prepared for any additional expenses that may come with your new truck so that you can make an informed buying decision.

Categories
Tech Articles

Raybuck Auto Body Parts Adds to Its Aftermarket Offering With Purchase of Henry’s Automotive Warehouse

raybuck logo                     Henry's Automotive Warehouse Logo

Pittsburgh, Pa. 11/22/2017 – Raybuck Auto Body Parts is expanding its product offering with the purchase of automotive fastener company, Henry’s Automotive Warehouse. For customers, that means they’ll now be able to get high-quality aftermarket parts and accessories, as well as the fasteners needed to complete the job, all from one place.

“Since opening our doors in 1985, we’ve made it our mission to provide our customers with high-quality parts at a fair price,” said Steve DeFrancesco, president of Raybuck Auto Body Parts. “Adding a complete line of fasteners and shop supplies from a tried and true company like Henry’s is directly in line with that mission. Customers can feel confident knowing that we’ll uphold the strict quality parts and service standards that have made Henry’s such a trusted and reliable partner.”

With the addition of Henry’s, Raybuck now offers a wide range of automotive fasteners, abrasives and specialty supplies that complement the already robust offering of aftermarket replacement parts ranging from body panels and flooring to fuel tanks, seat covers and undercoating. Raybuck’s complete line of products cover vehicles as early as the 1940s through today.

Even with the addition of Henry’s, Raybuck remains a service-oriented company focused on providing a higher level of customer support than the “big guys.” Customers who contact Raybuck and Henry’s have and will continue to expect to speak directly with a representative who is expertly trained in the complete product offering.

This dedication to the customer has not only helped Raybuck become a trusted partner, but also helped automotive shops and individual buyers alike, restore everything from their daily drivers to their cherished rides.

For more information or to review Raybuck’s complete product offering, visit raybuck.com.

About Raybuck Auto Body Parts

Since 1985, Raybuck Auto Body Parts has provided quality restoration parts and service. The company’s strong dedication to both a wide range of products and high-quality service has helped Raybuck become one of the top destinations for aftermarket restoration parts for light duty trucks, vans, suvs and cars. Whether it’s a part for your everyday ride or your hobby restore, Raybuck has a solution for you.